Saba Kaido
The Saba Kaido (鯖街道 or さば街道), or “Mackerel Road,” is a historic route that once connected the coastal fishing villages of Wakasa Bay with Kyoto, where fresh mackerel was transported to the ancient capital. Today, it’s a captivating journey for cyclists seeking a blend of history, culture, and nature. The route winds through scenic landscapes, including forested mountains, rivers, and rural villages, offering a peaceful and immersive ride. Along the way, cyclists can explore traditional inns, ancient shrines, and local delicacies, all while following a path rich in historical significance. The Saba Kaido provides a unique cycling experience, combining physical challenge with a deep connection to Japan’s cultural heritage.
Routes
Traditional Route
The traditional route and most direct route for the Saba Kaido runs from Kurama in North Kyoto directly through the mountains. Consequnetly, it is quite hilly.
National Route 367
For those wanting an easier approach, going via National Route 367 is an alternative. There is considerably less climbing on this route.
Things to do
Kumagawa juku
Kumagawa juku (若狭鯖街道熊川宿) is a beautiful historically preserved post town near Obama and is definitely worth a side trip.
Kifune Shrine
Just off the difficult route, Kifune Shrine and the surrounding area offer a wonderful area to visit.
Kifune Shrine, nestled in the lush mountains north of Kyoto, is a serene and enchanting destination steeped in history and natural beauty. Dedicated to the deity of water, the shrine is a place of spiritual significance, attracting visitors seeking blessings for harmony and purification.
The approach to Kifune Shrine is part of its charm, with a picturesque stone pathway lined with iconic red lanterns that create a tranquil and timeless atmosphere. Visitors can also enjoy the cool, refreshing air of the surrounding forest, especially during the summer months. In autumn, the vibrant foliage adds to the shrine’s allure, while in winter, a dusting of snow transforms it into a magical wonderland. Accessible via a scenic hike or a short trip from Kyoto, Kifune Shrine is a must-visit for its peaceful setting and cultural richness.
Getting there and away
Kyoto
Kyoto is on the Tokaido Shinkansen and easy to get to.
Obama
Obama Station is about an hour away from Tsuruga station (the end point of the newly extended Hokuriku Shinkansen and also about an hour from Kyoto using the Thunderbird Limited Express)