Cycling the Shikoku Ohenro: A Pilgrimage by Bicycle

The Shikoku Ohenro is one of Japan’s most famous pilgrimage routes, linking 88 Buddhist temples across the island of Shikoku. Traditionally completed on foot, the pilgrimage covers approximately 1,200 to 1,400 kilometers depending on the chosen route and side trips. While walking remains the classic approach, completing the Ohenro by bicycle has become increasingly popular among both Japanese and international travelers.

Cycling offers a balance between physical challenge and efficiency. It allows pilgrims to experience rural Shikoku at a slower pace than driving while covering substantially more distance than walking. However, the route presents unique logistical and physical demands that differ significantly from both touring cycling and traditional pilgrimage on foot.

What Is the Ohenro?

The Ohenro refers to the circular pilgrimage route around Shikoku associated with the Buddhist monk Kūkai, who founded the Shingon Buddhism sect in the 9th century. The pilgrimage connects 88 official temples spread across the four prefectures of Shikoku:

• Tokushima Prefecture
• Kōchi Prefecture
• Ehime Prefecture
• Kagawa Prefecture

Traditionally, pilgrims travel clockwise starting from Temple 1, Ryōzenji, although there is no strict requirement to do so. Each temple has its own history, architectural character, and religious significance.

The pilgrimage is not a race or an officially regulated event. People complete it for many reasons including religious devotion, cultural interest, athletic challenge, personal reflection, or tourism.

Why Cycle the Ohenro?

Walking the full route typically takes 40 to 60 days. By bicycle, many riders complete the pilgrimage in 15 to 20 days depending on fitness, weather, and sightseeing preferences. Unlike driving, cycling preserves a strong sense of physical immersion in the landscape.

Shikoku’s terrain makes the route particularly suited to bicycle touring. Coastal roads, mountain valleys, agricultural plains, fishing towns, and forests create a constantly changing environment. Riders encounter terrain ranging from relatively flat urban stretches to steep mountain ascents exceeding 1,000 meters in elevation.

Cycling also allows easier access to remote temples that would require long bus transfers or difficult scheduling by public transport.

Route Characteristics

The Ohenro is not a dedicated cycling trail. Pilgrims ride on ordinary Japanese roads, which vary from urban streets to narrow mountain routes.

Tokushima

The eastern section of the pilgrimage is often considered the easiest. Roads are generally moderate in elevation, and temples are clustered more closely together. Many cyclists use this portion to establish a rhythm before reaching the more demanding sections further south.

Kōchi

Kōchi contains some of the longest distances between temples. Coastal riding dominates much of the route, but significant climbs appear periodically. Services may be sparse in rural stretches, especially outside tourist seasons.

Strong coastal winds can also become a major factor for cyclists.

Ehime

Ehime includes both mountainous inland terrain and flatter agricultural areas. The approach to some temples involves steep climbs on narrow roads. However, many cyclists consider this section one of the most scenic portions of the pilgrimage.

Kagawa

The final section in Kagawa tends to be more urbanized and densely populated. Temple spacing becomes shorter again, although several demanding climbs remain near the end of the route.

Physical Demands

Cycling the Ohenro requires a reasonable level of endurance. Daily distances commonly range between 50 and 120 kilometers depending on itinerary and terrain.

The greatest challenge is often elevation gain rather than distance itself. Several temples are located on mountainsides or hilltops. Access roads can include sustained gradients exceeding 10 percent.

Weather also plays a significant role. Summer conditions in Shikoku are hot and humid, with daytime temperatures frequently exceeding 30°C. Spring and autumn are generally considered the best seasons due to milder temperatures and more stable weather.

Typhoon season, particularly from August through October, can create hazardous conditions including heavy rain, flooding, and landslides.

Bicycle Selection

Most riders use either touring bicycles, gravel bikes, hybrid bikes, or lightweight road touring setups. Ultra-light racing bicycles are less ideal due to rough road surfaces, luggage requirements, and steep climbs.

Key considerations include:

• Reliable low gearing for mountain climbs
• Durable tires resistant to punctures
• Stable handling with luggage
• Effective braking for long descents

Electric bicycles are increasingly common among Japanese pilgrims, particularly older riders. Rental services for e-bikes have also expanded in some areas of Shikoku.

A fully loaded touring setup can significantly increase fatigue on steep climbs. Many experienced riders therefore minimize luggage and rely on regular accommodation rather than camping equipment.

Navigation

Navigation has become substantially easier due to smartphones and GPS applications. However, the Ohenro still contains occasional confusing sections, particularly in urban areas where official markers may be obscured and most of these markers are aimed at walkers.

All temples are signposted for cars from the nearest main roads

Traditional pilgrimage markers remain visible throughout much of the route. These often include:

• Stone waymarkers
• Painted arrows
• Temple numbering signs
• Henro path stickers

Some cyclists follow the walking pilgrimage route exactly, while others adapt the route to safer or more efficient roads. This is particularly relevant in mountainous areas where hiking paths may not be suitable for bicycles.

Accommodation

Accommodation options on the Ohenro are extensive.

Pilgrims commonly stay in:

• Business hotels
• Ryokan inns
• Guesthouses
• Minshuku family lodgings
• Temple lodgings
• Hostels

Reservations are advisable during peak pilgrimage seasons and Japanese holidays.

Cyclists often appreciate accommodations with laundry facilities and secure bicycle storage. Many Japanese hotels are accustomed to touring cyclists and may allow bicycles inside rooms or storage areas.

Camping is possible but less common among Ohenro cyclists. The route passes through densely populated areas often enough that accommodation is usually accessible each evening.

Pilgrimage Customs

Although many cyclists approach the Ohenro primarily as a tour, pilgrimage customs remain an important aspect of the experience.

At each temple, pilgrims typically perform a sequence of rituals such as:

1. Washing hands and mouth
2. Lighting incense and candles
3. Offering prayers (O-kyo お経)
4. Copying sutras or chanting
5. Collecting temple stamps (goshuin)

Even non-religious participants often engage in these practices out of respect for the tradition.

Osettai and Local Culture

One distinctive aspect of the Ohenro is the tradition of osettai, where local residents offer gifts or assistance to pilgrims. This may include food, drinks, snacks, or simple conversation.

The practice reflects a long-standing cultural relationship between Shikoku communities and pilgrims.

Cyclists may experience somewhat fewer interactions than walkers due to moving more quickly through communities, but encounters still occur regularly, especially in rural areas.

Basic Japanese language ability can substantially enhance these interactions, although many pilgrims complete the route with minimal Japanese.

Traffic and Road Safety

Japan is generally considered safe for cycling, but the Ohenro presents several hazards requiring caution.

Potential risks include:

• Narrow mountain roads
• Limited shoulders
• Tunnel sections
• Fast-moving trucks on coastal highways
• Wet descents during rain

Tunnel visibility is especially important and Shikoku has many of them. Strong front and rear lights are essential equipment.

Food and Resupply

Convenience stores are one of the major advantages of cycling in Japan. Even relatively rural sections of the route usually provide regular access to food, drinks, and supplies.

However, certain mountain sections may have long gaps between services, making advance planning important.

Timing and Completion

There is no official deadline or required pace for completing the pilgrimage.

Some cyclists complete all 88 temples in a single continuous journey, while others divide the route across multiple trips over months or years.

Many cyclists also include detours to coastal viewpoints, hot springs, castles, or local restaurants along the way.

Note that most templtes are only open between 7AM and 5PM which can leave cyclists waiting for a temple to open or just missing a temple in the evening slowing down a tour

Environmental and Cultural Considerations

The Ohenro remains an active religious pilgrimage rather than solely a tourist attraction. Respectful behavior is important at temples and within local communities.

Cyclists should avoid:

• Blocking temple entrances with bicycles
• Loud behavior at religious sites
• Riding aggressively through pedestrian areas
• Entering restricted temple sections

Waste disposal is also important in Japan, where public trash bins are relatively uncommon.

Conclusion

Cycling the Ohenro combines endurance touring, cultural travel, and pilgrimage into a single experience. The route offers a rare opportunity to traverse an entire Japanese region at human scale while engaging with centuries of religious tradition.

Unlike many long-distance cycling routes focused purely on scenery or athletic achievement, the Ohenro incorporates ritual, hospitality, and reflection into the journey. Riders move through fishing villages, forests, mountains, cities, and temple grounds while following a route shaped by more than a thousand years of history.

For cyclists prepared for steep climbs, changing weather, and long days on the road, the Shikoku Ohenro provides one of Japan’s most distinctive and rewarding bicycle touring experiences.